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Documentation-3D printer-Rostock: Difference between revisions

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(insCuraaddRostock)
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C.48 press knob
C.48 press knob
ins3DRostockmaint - June 13, 2019 version
ins3DRostockmaint - June 13, 2019 version
insCuraaddRostock.txt - How to add the Rostock to Cura (Warning: instructions are for one specific version of Cura; others may differ but the basic idea should be the same) - Jan. 4, 2018 version To add the Rostock to Cura (numbers are for standard filament): R.1 Click on Machine (top left) R.2 Click on Add new machine... R.3 At Select your machine (pictures) click on Other Printers R.4 Click on Next R.5 At Select your machine (list) click on Other R.6 Click on Next R.7 At Other machine information click on DeltaBot R.8 Click on Next R.9 At Cura Ready! click on Finish R.10 Click on Machine R.11 Click on Machine settings... R.12 At Machine settings: Maximum width (mm): 320 R.13 Maximum depth (mm): 320 R.14 Maximum height (mm): 320 R.15 Click on OK R.16 At Speed and temperature: Printing temperature (C): 215 R.17 Bed temperature (C): 0 R.18 At Filament: Diameter (mm): 1.75

Revision as of 05:00, 1 October 2019

ins3DRostockpronsolequick.txt - May 24, 2019 version This covers common situations. If something else is encountered consult the full instructions (ins3DRostockpronsole.txt)

      • NOTE*** The Rostock is currently miscalibrated & prints too small in the x & y directions. These instructions change the scale to compensate. For better results, multiply all x & y values by 1.065 when designing the object & skip lines Q.15-Q.19.

Q.1 In MATE Terminal: cura (program to convert surface representation(.stl) to 3D printer instructions(.gcode)) Q.2 When Cura control display appears click on Machine (at top) Q.3 Click on DeltaBot Style (yes, Deltabot not Rostock) Q.4 At Fill - Fill density (%): enter desired value (i.e., 20 for prototypes) Q.5 At Speed and temperature - Printing temperature (C): 215 (for PLA) Q.6 At Speed and temperature - Bed temperature (C): 0 (bed heater not working) Q.7 At Support - Support type: select None, Touching buildplate, or Everywhere (depends on object to be printed; if in doubt select Everywhere) Q.8 At Support - Platform adhesion type: select None, Brim, or Raft (depends on object; if in doubt select Brim) Q.9 Click on LOAD MODEL (top left of image) Q.10 Click on filetoprint.stl (scroll down if needed; i.e., testcube.stl) Q.11 Click on Open (lower right) Q.12 Put blue masking tape on Rostock bed Q.13 Put glue (purple glue stick (PVA)) on tape Q.14 Check that there is sufficient correct filament on reel (the following steps may take a long time) Q.15 When the object appears on right click on it Q.16 Click on SCALE (center icon of 3 at bottom left of image) Q.17 Click on lock to right of Uniform Scale Q.18 X: 1.065 Q.19 Y: 1.065 Q.20 When SAVE GCODE lights up (just to right of LOAD MODEL) click on it; if a romovable drive message does not appear skip Q.21-Q.23 Q.21 Click on Custom file destination Q.22 Click on OK Q.23 Click on hacdc Q.24 When Save toolpath window appears click on Save (bottom right) Q.25 When Cura states (at bottom) Saved as /home/hacd... (with a large X to the right) click on tiny x at far right top of Cura (to close Cura) Q.26 scp filetoprint.gcode [email protected]:/home/hacdc (i.e., testcube.gcode; send to 3D printer) Q.27 At Password: enter standard password Q.28 If Rostock power is off turn it on (rocker switch above & to left of F4 (may be hidden under removable bed); display should come on) Q.29 At 3D printer computer (keyboard usually on Taz): Ctrl Alt F4 (always hold Ctrl & Alt down when pressing the other key (F4 (at top) not F & 4)) Q.30 If the monitor (above Taz to left) shows a final line starting with a printer in use see full instructions Q.31 If the monitor shows a final line that starts with offline, MINI, ROSTOCK, or TAZ skip Q.32-Q.34; [nnnnn@pronterhost ~]$ where nnnnn is anything skip Q.32-Q.33; anything else other than pronterhost login: see full instructions Q.32 pronterhost login: hacdc Q.33 At Password: enter standard password Q.34 pronsole Q.35 connect /dev/ROSTOCK Q.36 load /home/hacdc/filetoprint.gcode (i.e., /home/hacdc/testcube.gcode) Q.37 Wait until the monitor states the file is loaded (may take a while) Q.38 If the final line does not show ROSTOCK in green see full instructions Q.39 print Q.40 Wait for Rostock to start and check to see that it is printing OK Q.41 Wait - printing large objects can take an extremely long time ins3DRostockpronsolequick.txt - May 24, 2019 version

ins3DRostockpronsole.txt - May 24, 2019 version This is the full detailed instructions for using the Rostock with pronsole (the old way). Many of the steps (i.e., R.1-R.7) can usually be skipped; see ins3DRostockpronsolequick.txt for minimal instructions.

      • NOTE*** The Rostock is currently miscalibrated & prints too small in the x & y directions. These instructions change the scale to compensate. For better results, multiply all x & y values by 1.065 when designing the object & use 1 instead of 1.065 at R.37-R.38 or just skip R.32-R.39.

R.1 Make sure long power strip above microwave oven is on (orange light on in switch at right end) R.2 Make sure power strip above sink is plugged into long power strip R.3 Make sure Rostock fan power supply is plugged into power strip over sink R.4 Make sure Rostock is plugged into horizontal power strip just to left of Taz R.5 Make sure 3D printer computer (Dell computer left of Rostock) is plugged into power strip left of Taz R.6 Make sure 3D printer computer monitor (above & to left of Taz) is plugged in to power strip left of Taz R.7 Maker sure power strip over sink is on R.8 If the horizontal power strip left of the Taz is off (no orange light) turn it on (switch at wall end; orange light in switch should come on) R.9 If the 3D printer computer is off (no green light in power button in center of front above silver Dell logo) press the power button (light should come on) R.10 Check that there is sufficient correct filament on the reel R.11 If the filament diameter is not written on the reel measure the filament diameter (calipers are in the Measurement bin) in several places and write the average diameter on the reel R.12 At the tabletop computer in MATE Terminal: cura (program to convert surface representation(.stl) to 3D printer instructions(.gcode)) R.13 If Basic is at the top left when the Cura control display appears skip R.14-R.16 R.14 Click on Expert R.15 Click on Switch to full settings... R.16 At Profile copy click No R.17 If Quality is not immediately below Basic click on Basic R.18 Click on Machine (at top) R.19 Click on Deltabot Style (yes, Deltabot not Rostock) R.20 At Fill - Fill density (%): enter desired value (i.e., 20 for prototypes) R.21 At Speed and temperature - Printing temperature (C): 215 (for PLA) R.22 At Speed and temperature - Bed temperature (C): 0 (bed heater not working) R.23 At Support - Support type: select None, Touching buildplate, or Everywhere (depends on object to be printed; if in doubt select Everywhere) R.24 At Support - Platform adhesion type: select None, Brim, or Raft (depends on object; if in doubt select Brim) R.25 At Filament - Diameter (mm): enter diameter written on reel R.26 Click on LOAD MODEL (top left of image) R.27 If you don't see the file to print (i.e., testcube.stl) click on hacdc & scroll down if needed R.28 Click on filetoprint.stl (i.e., testcube.stl) R.29 Click on Open (lower right) R.30 Put blue masking tape on Rostock bed R.31 Put glue (purple glue stick (PVA)) on tape (the following steps may take a long time) R.32 When the object appears on right click on it; if you do not want to make a mirror image skip R.33-R.34 R.33 Click on MIRROR (right icon of 3 at bottom left of image) R.34 Click on the new icon above MIRROR with the correct reflection plane (MIRROR Z, MIRROR Y, or MIRROR Z) R.35 Click on SCALE (center icon of 3 at bottom left of image) R.36 Click on lock to right of Uniform Scale R.37 At X: enter 1.065 or, to change the x dimension of the object, 1.065 multiplied by the number to scale x direction by (i.e, .532 (1.065 x .5) to shrink to half width) R.38 At Y: enter 1.065 or, to change the y dimension (depth) of the object, 1.065 multiplied by the number to scale y direction by R.39 To change the z dimension enter the number to scale the z direction by (i.e., 2 to double the height) at Z: R.40 When SAVE GCODE lights up (just to right of LOAD MODEL) click on it; if a removable drive message does not appear skip R.41-R.43 R.41 Click on Custom file destination R.42 Click on OK R.43 Click on hacdc R.44 When Save toolpath window appears enter file name (i.e., testcubeR.gcode) after Name: (at top) R.45 Click on Save (bottom right) R.46 When Cura states (at bottom) Saved as /home/hacd... (with a large X to the right) click on tiny x at far right top of Cura (to close Cura) R.47 scp filetoprint.gcode [email protected]:/home/hacdc (i.e., testcubeR.gcode; send to 3D printer computer; note that it may be necessary to wait later (at R.73) for this to finish) R.48 At Password: enter standard password R.49 If Rostock power is off turn it on (rocker switch above & to left of F4 (may be hidden under removable bed); display should come on) R.50 At 3D printer computer (keyboard usually on Taz):Ctrl Alt F4 (always hold Ctrl & Alt down when pressing the other key (F4 (at top) not F & 4)) R.51 If the 3D printer computer monitor (above Taz on left) does not show a final line starting with a printer in use skip R.52-R.56 R.52 Ctrl Alt F2 R.53 If the final line does not start with a printer in use skip R.54-R.56 R.54 Ctrl Alt F6 R.55 If the final line does not start with a printer in use skip R.56 R.56 Ctrl Alt F5 R.57 If the monitor is blank or only shows a flashing dash wait a minute R.58 Press backspace & hold it down if anything is disappearing from the monitor R.59 If the monitor shows a final line that is just a flashing dash press Enter R.60 If the monitor shows a final line that starts offline, MINI, ROSTOCK, or TAZ skip R.61-R.71; [nnnnn@pronterhost ~]$ where nnnnn is anything skip R.61-R.70; pronterhost login: skip R.61-R.68 R.61 If either Mini or Taz printer is in use ***STOP*** & either wait for the printers to finish or get expert help R.62 Ctrl Alt F1 R.63 Click on 3 dots & > symbol at lower left corner of monitor R.64 Move cursor to Leave at lower right corner of new window R.65 Click on Reboot in center of window R.66 Click on OK R.67 Wait for monitor to come back on (it takes a while) R.68 Ctrl Alt F4 R.69 pronterhost login: hacdc R.70 At Password: enter standard password R.71 pronsole R.72 connect /dev/ROSTOCK R.73 load /home/hacdc/filetoprint.gcode (i.e., /home/hacdc/testcubeR.gcode; it may be necessary to wait for the file to finish transferring from the other computer (step R.47)) R.74 If any of the horizontal rods joining the printhead platform to the 3 support arms or joining the arms to the movable mounts on the side bars of the frame have shifted off to the side push them back in so they are centered R.75 Wait until the monitor states the file is loaded (may take a while) R.76 If the final line begins with ROSTOCK in green skip R.77-R.87 R.77 disconnect R.78 connect /dev/ROSTOCK R.79 Wait a minute R.80 Enter R.81 If the final line has ROSTOCK in green skip R.82-R.87 R.82 Turn off Rostock power (rocker switch on top of & to left of display) R.83 Wait a minute R.84 Turn on Rostock power R.85 Wait until the regular Rostock display appears R.86 Repeat steps R.78-R.81 R.87 STOP & get expert help R.88 print R.89 Wait for Rostock to start and check to see that it is printing OK R.90 Wait - printing large objects can take an extremely long time ins3DRostockpronsole.txt - May 24, 2019 version

ins3DRostockstart.txt - June 13, 2019 version If you can't fix a problem & expert help is not available: !.1 If the Rostock power has already been turned off STOP here !.2 pause !.3 Press knob on Rostock (to right of display on base) !.4 Select Adjust Temps by turning knob !.5 Press knob !.6 Select NOZ Temp: by turning knob !.7 Press knob !.8 Set temperature to 0 by turning knob !.9 Press knob

If printing does not begin: P.1 If the nozzle temperature stays (it may overshoot for a short time) above the correct value by more than a few degrees skip P.2-P.19; if the temperature is below the correct value but rising STOP & wait (the Rostock is still preparing to print) P.2 Select NOZ Temp: by following steps !.3-!.7 P.3 Set temperature to 0 by turning knob P.4 Press knob P.5 Press knob again P.6 Set temperature to correct value by turning knob P.7 Press knob; if the printhead temperature rises skip P.8-P.17 P.8 Turn the Rostock power off (rocker switch to left & on top of display) P.9 Wait a minute P.10 Turn Rostock power on P.11 Wait until the regular display appears on the Rostock P.12 If not using pronsole start over; if using pronsole: connect /dev/ROSTOCK P.13 If the final line of the screen starts with ROSTOCK in green skip P.14-P.17 P.14 Wait briefly & press Enter P.15 If the final line of the screen shows ROSTOCK in green skip P.16-P.17 P.16 Repeat P.14-P.15 P.17 If ROSTOCK is still red STOP & get expert help P.18 print; if the printhead heats up STOP here P.19 STOP & get expert help P.20 Turn the Rostock power off P.21 Get expert help

If the display shows NOZ: def or BED: def or you get the error message: Error:Printer set into dry run mode until restart! D.1 Turn Rostock power off (rocker switch to left & on top of display; may be covered by square bed) D.2 Make sure bed temperature was set to 0 when stl file was converted to gcode (i.e., when using Cura) D.3 Wait a minute D.4 Turn Rostock power back on D.5 Wait until regular Rostock display appears D.6 Start over

If you get the error message: Error:One heater seems decoupled from thermistor H.1 Press knob on Rostock H.2 Select Adjust Temps by turning knob H.3 Press knob H.4 Select BED Temp: by turning knob H.5 Press knob H.6 Set temperature to 0 C by turning knob (clockwise for lower) H.7 Press knob H.8 Select NOZ Temp: by turning knob H.9 Press knob H.10 Set nozzle temperature to correct value by turning knob H.11 Press knob

ins3DRostockend.txt - June 13, 2019 version To remove printed objects from the bed: Z.1 Spread water around the base of the object so a shallow layer touches it all around Z.2 Wait until the object has cooled fully and water has soaked in; add more water as needed to maintain a shallow layer all around Z.3 If the object is sturdy you can try to remove it by slowly but firmly trying to tilt it in different directions; if it comes off skip Z.4-Z.8 Z.4 Remove tape around base of object Z.5 Slice under the object from various directions with a razor blade (careful!) Z.6 Pry up the object from different directions with a putty knife or similar item; if the object comes off skip Z.7-Z.8 Z.7 Wait some more; add more water as needed to maintain a shallow layer all around Z.8 Repeat steps Z.5-Z.8 Z.9 Dry off the bed

ins3DRostockprob.txt - June 13, 2019 version To pause printing if using pronsole: P.1 pause (it may take a while to stop) P.2 If you might want to resume the print avoid moving the printhead unless necessary and only use the move commands to move it (i.e., move z 10) being careful not to hit the partial print with the printhead unit & noting how much it is moved in each direction P.3 To resume printing: If the printhead has not been moved skip P.4 P.4 Use move commands to move the printhead back to where it paused (i.e., move z -10) being careful not to hit the partial print with the printhead unit P.5 resume

If you can't fix a problem & expert help is not available: !.1 If the Rostock power has already been turned off STOP here !.2 pause !.3 Press knob on Rostock (to right of display on base) !.4 Select Adjust Temps by turning knob !.5 Press knob !.6 Select NOZ Temp: by turning knob !.7 Press knob !.8 Set temperature to 0 by turning knob !.9 Press knob !.10 Get expert help when it becomes available; it may be possible to resume printing

If the nozzle temperature stays (it may overshoot for a short time) above the correct value by more than a few degrees: T.1 Turn Rostock power off (rocker switch to left & on top of display) T.2 Get expert help

If the display shows NOZ: def or BED: def: D.1 Turn Rostock power off (rocker switch left and on top of display; may be partially covered by square bed) D.2 Turn Rostock power back on (you may need to use a pencil etc. to flip the switch) D.3 Make sure the bed temperature was set to 0 when the stl file was converted to gcode (i.e., when using Cura) D.4 Start over

If the display shows gibberish: G.1 If the printer is printing normally wait until the print finishes G.2 Turn Rostock power off (rocker switch left and on top of display; may be partially covered by square bed) G.3 Turn Rostock power back on (you may need to use a pencil etc. to flip the switch) G.4 Start over

If the feed gear won't turn: F.1 If the main display is shown skip F.2-F.4 F.2 Select Previous Screen by turning knob F.3 Press knob F.4 Repeat steps F.1-F.4 F.5 Press knob (should then show Printer Settings selected) F.6 Press knob again F.7 Select Disable Steppers by turning knob F.8 Press knob

ins3DRostockmaint.txt - June 13, 2019 version To change Rostock filament: F.1 Make sure new reel has correct filament F.2 Press knob to right of display on Rostock base F.3 Select Adjust Temp: by turning knob F.4 Press knob F.5 Select NOZ Temp: by turning knob F.6 Press knob (> at left of display should change to *) F.7 Set temperature to 180 C by turning knob F.8 Press knob F.9 Trim end of new filament if it is blunt or distorted; try to make it slightly pointed F.10 Loosen 2 adjacent screws next to large purple gear on feed mechanism attached to top of Rostock noting how much they were turned F.11 Measure the diameter of the new filament (calipers are in the Measurement bin) in several places and write the average diameter on the reel; note that if the diameter is different gcode should be recompiled (i.e., with Cura) using the new diameter F.12 Wait until nozzle temperature reaches about 180 C F.13 Pull filament up until it comes out of feed mechanism F.14 Select NOZ Temp: by repeating steps F.2-F.6 F.15 Set temperature to 215 C by turning knob F.16 Press knob F.17 Pull old filament up from above Rostock (i.e., by turning filament reel) out of hole in top of Rostock above feed mechanism F.18 Unscrew nut on outside of reel from threaded rod holding reel F.19 Remove washer from threaded rod F.20 Remove pink reel holder from threaded rod F.21 Remove reel from threaded rod F.22 Put new reel on threaded rod so filament hangs down from front of reel as seen from front of Rostock F.23 Put pink reel holder on threaded rod so new reel is held snugly and is centered on holders F.24 Put washer back on threaded rod F.25 Screw nut back on threaded rod until reel holder is held firmly (but reel can still turn freely) F.26 Insert filament thru hole in top of Rostock above feed mechanism making sure it is not twisted or tangled F.27 Push end of filament into hole above purple gear on feed mechanism while turning purple gear clockwise; if filament enters feed tube (visible in short exposed section of feed tube just below purple gear) skip F.28-F.30 F.28 Unscrew feed tube below purple gear F.29 Feed filament from below purple gear into feed tube F.30 Screw filament feed tube back onto feed mechanism below purple gear F.31 Wait until NOZ Temp reaches around 215 C F.32 Turn purple gear clockwise until filament starts coming out of extruder head (it will take a while for it to reach the head) F.33 Tighten 2 screws next to purple gear the same amount they were loosened F.34 If you are going to print now stop here F.35 Select NOZ Temp: by repeating steps F.2-F.6 F.36 Set temperature to 0 by turning knob F.37 Press knob

To set printhead height: Z.1 Press knob to right of display on base Z.2 Select Advanced Settings by turning knob Z.3 Press knob Z.4 Select Calibration Menu by turning knob Z.5 Press knob Z.6 Select Z Position by turning knob Z.7 Press knob Z.8 Set printhead to correct height (barely above bed; it should slightly drag on a sheet of paper) by turning knob Z.9 Press knob Z.10 Select Set Z Origin by turning knob Z.11 Press knob Z.12 Select Previous Screen by turning knob Z.13 Press knob Z.14 Repeat Z.12-Z.13 until you reach the desired display

To level the bed: L.1 Unclip & remove glass bed plate L.2 Clean off any debris on the Rostock base or the bottom of the plate L.3 Replace & reclip plate L.4 Make sure the printhead is at the proper height in the center of the bed (see To set printhead height immediately above) L.5 If bed still needs leveling turn the vertical screw sticking out of the inside top of the movable joint where an arm meets a main vertical bar of the frame less than a full turn clockwise to raise the printhead on that side, counterclockwise to lower it L.6 Repeat until that side is level L.7 Repeat for other two sides as needed

NOTE: Since the Rostock is currently printing smaller than it should the feed rate has been set lower than normal to compensate To calibrate the filament feed rate: R.1 Ctrl Alt F4 (always hold the Ctrl & Alt keys down while pressing the other key (F4 (top row) not F & 4)) R.2 If the screen does not show a final line starting with a printer that is in use skip R.3-R.7 R.3 Alt F2 R.4 If the final line does not start with a printer in use skip R.5-R.7 R.5 Alt F6 R.6 If the final line does not start with a printer in use skip R.7 R.7 Alt F1 R.8 If the final line starts with offline, MINI, ROSTOCK, or TAZ skip R.9-R.11; if it is nnnn@pronterhost:~$ where nnnn is anything skip R.9-R.10; if it is not pronterhost login: see ins3Dcompprob.txt R.9 pronterhost login: hacdc R.10 At Password: enter standard password R.11 pronsole R.12 connect /dev/ROSTOCK R.13 If the final line shows ROSTOCK in green skip R.14-R.19 R.14 Wait a minute R.15 Enter R.16 If screen shows ROSTOCK in green skip R.17-R.19 R.17 disconnect R.18 Repeat R.12-R.16 R.19 See ins3Dcompprob.txt R.20 Select NOZ Temp: by following steps F.2-F.6 R.21 Set temperature to 215 C by turning knob R.22 Press knob R.23 If the nozzle is close to the bed or a print: move z 20 R.24 Wait until NOZ Temp: is about 215 C R.25 Mark the filament at a known distance from where it enters the feed mechanism (i.e., 120 mm) R.26 extrude # where # is somewhat less than the distance to the mark (i.e., 100 R.27 Wait until the Rostock finishes extruding R.28 If the mark has entered the feed mechanism repeat R.25-R.28 with a longer distance to the mark R.29 Measure the distance from the mark to where the filament enters the feed mechanism (i.e., 21.6 mm) R.30 Repeat steps R.25-R.29 with the same distance to the mark & extrude length R.31 If the result is not the same STOP & get expert help (if help is not available set printhead temperature to 0 or turn Rostock power off) R.32 Subtract the length remaining (i.e., 21.6 mm) from the original length to the mark (i.e., 120) to determine how much filament was actually extruded (i.e., 98.4 mm) R.33 Press knob on Rostock (to right of display on base) R.34 Select Advanced Settings by turning knob R.35 Press knob R.36 Select Extruder by turning knob R.37 Press knob R.38 Select Steps/MM: by turning knob R.39 Multiply number shown (i.e., 798.4) by length that should have been extruded (i.e.,798.4 x 100 = 79840) R.40 Divide by amount that was actually extruded (i.e., 98.4) to get the correct feed rate (i.e., 79840 / 98.4 = 811.4) R.41 Press knob (> at left of display should change to *) R.42 Set Steps/MM: to correct value by turning knob R.43 Press knob R.44 Repeat steps R.25-R.29 with a longer length (i.e., mark at 205 mm & extrude 200) R.45 Subtract the length remaining from the original length to determine the actual length extruded R.46 If display does not still show Steps/MM: repeat steps R.33-R.38 R.47 If the actual length is correct skip R.48; if it is way off STOP & get expert help (if help is not available set printhead temperature to 0 or turn Rostock power off) R.48 Repeat steps R.39-R.43 R.49 Select Previous Screen by turning knob R.50 Press knob R.51 Select Store to EEPROM by turning knob R.52 Press knob R.53 If you are going to print now stop here R.54 Select Previous Screen by turning knob R.55 Press knob R.56 Select Adjust Temps by turning knob R.57 Press knob R.58 Select NOZ Temp: by turning knob R.59 Press knob R.60 Set temperature to 0 by turning knob R.61 Press knob

To tighten a belt: B.1 Turn off printer B.2 For easier access, move the arm-rod joint down so the arm tilts up towards the center B.3 Unscrew the 2 hex head bolts with washer & white spacer at the inside center of the arm-rod joints B.4 Pull out the narrow vertical piece in the inside center of the arm-rod joint B.5 While holding the joint, pull up on the LOWER belt end sticking out from where the removed piece was B.6 While maintaining tension on the belt, swing the belt end down B.7 While continuing to maintain tension, replace the narrow vertical piece so the teeth press against the belt at top & bottom B.8 Replace one of the hex bolts with the washer & white spacer (the spacer must fit in the hole in the vertical piece) B.9 Thighten the bolt until it holds the vertical piece securely B.10 Replace the other bolt, washer, & spacer B.11 Firmly tighten both bolts B.12 Push the joint back up so the arm tilts down towards the center

To unclog the Rostock printhead: C.1 Unscrew the coupling (gold color with 6 sides & blue piece at top where filament enters; CAUTION - may be hot) at the top of the printhead C.2 Press knob C.3 Select Adjust Temps by turning knob C.4 Press knob C.5 Select NOZ Temp: by turning knob C.6 Press knob C.7 Set to 215 C by turning knob C.8 Press knob C.9 Select Previous Screen by turning knob C.10 Press knob C.11 Select Previous Screen by turning knob C.12 Press knob C.13 Wait until NOZ: reaches around 215 C.14 If there is filament going into the printhead pull it out (up); if there is a short piece of tubing on the end of the filament skip steps C.15-C.19 C.15 If the top of the vertical piece of tubing in the top center of the printhead where the filament enters is not clogged skip C.16-17 C.16 Using a 1/16" bit in a hand drill, drill a short distance into the clog being careful to keep the drill bit centered C.17 Lift out the drill bit; if the piece of tubing comes out with it skip C.18-C.19 C.18 Screw a fairly long screw slightly bigger than the filament into the end of the tubing where the filament enters until the screw catches in the tubing C.19 Pull out the piece of tubing C.20 If there is a piece of filament sticking out of the tubing try to pull it out (may take considerable effort) C.21 If there is still a clog in the tubing push the feed tube snake (should be behind & to right of Rostock on top of electrical box on wall) or other rigid straight item into an open end of the tube to try to force the clog out (may also take considerable effort); if it comes out skip C.22-23 C.22 Using a 1/16" bit in a hand drill, carefully drill out the clog (from both ends if necessary) C.23 Using a 5/64" bit in a hand drill or your fingers, drill out the remainder of the clog C.24 Push the tubing back into the top center of the printhead with the burnt end up (use a pencil eraser etc. to push it all the way in) C.25 If the filament goes all the way thru the feed tube & moves freely when the purple feed gear on the extruder (hanging from the top of the Rostock) is turned skip C.26-C.33; if the coupling at the end of the feed tube is not clogged skip C.26 C.26 Using a 5/64" bit in a hand drill, carefully drill out the clog (Caution: the coupling may still be hot) C.27 Unscrew the coupling at the other end of the feed tube where it connects to the extruder C.28 Try to pull the filament out of the tube; if it won't come out STOP and get expert help; the tube may need to be replaced C.29 Check if the tube is clear (i.e., by pushing the feed tube snake thru it); if it isn't & the clog can't be pushed out STOP and get expert help; the tube may need to be replaced C.30 If the end of the filament is swollen, damaged, or blunt trim off any swollen or damaged part and try to make the end slightly pointed C.31 Insert the end of the filament into the feed tube C.32 Screw the connector back into the extruder C.33 Feed filament by turning the purple gear on the extruder clockwise (as viewed from the front) until it emerges from the other end of the feed tube (requires a lot of turning; if there is a problem the instructions for changing the filament may be helpful) C.34 If the end of the filament is swollen, damaged, or blunt trim off any swollen or damaged part and try to make the end slightly pointed C.35 Retract excess filament by turning the purple extruder gear counterclockwise until only a tiny amount sticks out C.36 Screw the coupling (Caution - it may still be hot) back into the top of the printhead C.37 Repeat steps C.2-C.6 if needed to select NOZ temp: C.38 Set temperature to 225 by turning knob C.39 Repeat steps C.8-C.12 C.40 Wait until NOZ temp: reaches around 225 C.41 Slowly turn purple gear clockwise (or use the extrude command) until filament starts to emerge (if the gear becomes hard to turn but no filament comes out it may have reclogged; start over (it has taken a couple tries before final success)) C.42 Repeat steps C.2-C.6 C.43 Set NOZ temp: to 215 by turning knob C.44 Press knob C.45 Put feed tube snake away if you used it C.46 If you are going to print now stop here C.47 Set NOZ temp: to 0 by turning knob C.48 press knob ins3DRostockmaint - June 13, 2019 version

insCuraaddRostock.txt - How to add the Rostock to Cura (Warning: instructions are for one specific version of Cura; others may differ but the basic idea should be the same) - Jan. 4, 2018 version To add the Rostock to Cura (numbers are for standard filament): R.1 Click on Machine (top left) R.2 Click on Add new machine... R.3 At Select your machine (pictures) click on Other Printers R.4 Click on Next R.5 At Select your machine (list) click on Other R.6 Click on Next R.7 At Other machine information click on DeltaBot R.8 Click on Next R.9 At Cura Ready! click on Finish R.10 Click on Machine R.11 Click on Machine settings... R.12 At Machine settings: Maximum width (mm): 320 R.13 Maximum depth (mm): 320 R.14 Maximum height (mm): 320 R.15 Click on OK R.16 At Speed and temperature: Printing temperature (C): 215 R.17 Bed temperature (C): 0 R.18 At Filament: Diameter (mm): 1.75